Hong Kong Temples

Temple tasters are in for a treat in Hong Kong. Every neighborhood has shrines and temples both large and small, and the panoply of gods is wide. Tin Hau, protector goddess of fishermen, is perhaps the most widely worshipped - not surprising in a city which is associated so closely with the sea. Other popular deities include Hung Shing, Kwun Yam and Hau Wong.

Temples tend to have a standard symmetrical layout - a main hall with a statue of the god at the back, flanked by minor deities and accoutrements such as drums and ceremonial martial arts weapons. A table for offerings stands in front and the hall is accessed through a central doorway with a raised threshold. A second doorway follows immediately afterwards, designed to foil evil spirits who can travel only in straight lines. Rooms on either side are used to worship other gods or as quarters for temple keepers. Many temples have bells; the casting date of these often gives some clues as to the building's age.

The temples below are some of the most colourful, authentic or accessible.

Che Kung Temple

This large and very popular temple dedicated to General Che, a historical figure of the Sung dynasty who suppressed an uprising in southern China. A giant statue of the general stands in the main hall, and worshippers come to make offerings and spin windmills for good fortune. There is also a row of fortune tellers. Chinese New Year is the temple's busiest time, when many people, traditionally including Hong Kong's Secretary for Home Affairs, come to seek good luck for the year ahead. The modern temple, which has a definite Japanese style to it, was built only in 1993, the original, which is 300 years old, is much smaller and is hidden away behind the main hall. Open daily 07:00-18:00. Access KCR Che Kung Temple Station.

Ching Chong Koon

This Taoist temple is well known for its collection of bonsai trees, which have been nurtured over the course of many years. The complex sits amidst gardens, pavilions and fishponds designed in traditional Chinese style. It was originally a remote rural hideaway, predating the new town which now surrounds it, but still manages to feel like a haven away from the city. Open 07:00-18:00. Access via Ching Chung LRT station.

Hau Wong Temple

Tung Chung has a place in the Imperial Chinese history book - the bay was the site of a 13th century naval battle which saw the deaths of the two boy emperors who were the last of the Sung dynasty. Local villagers began to venerate Marquis Yeung, the boy's loyal protector, and this temple to him was built on the coast at Tung Chung in 1765. The grassy area in front of the temple is used as a site for Cantonese opera and other seasonal activities. This is also the starting point for a coastal hike which passes through several old villages on the way to Tai O. Access via Yat Tung Estate.

Man Mo Temple

Dedicated to the gods of literature and war, the Man Mo Temple is one of the oldest on Hong Kong Island, harking back to the earliest days of British rule. The temple is well known for its gigantic incense coils which hang from the ceiling, filling the interior with thick, fragrant smoke. It is popular with tour groups so try to pay a visit when there are no coaches parked outsides, but be warned it closes at 18:00.

Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery

Above the older part of Sha Tin, figures of golden monks line the approach route to a hillside monastery famous for its gaudy Buddhist statuary. The walls of the main hall are blocked with more than 10,000 Buddha figurines, all slightly different. The body of the founding abbot is also gilded and on display - a rather gruesome exhibit. There is a canteen which serves cheap Chinese vegetarian food. Open 09:00-17:00 daily, allow 20 minutes or so for the walk up to it. Access KCR Sha Tin Station.

Tin Hau Temple (Joss House Bay)

This remote inlet south of Clear Water Bay comes to life just once year, on the occasion of Tin Hau's birthday. At the time, flotillas of fishing boats and ferries bring thousands of visitors to worships at the temple, which may be Hong Kong's oldest - a Sung dynasty rock inscription on the hillside above dates back to the year 1274. The large, imposing temple looks out across the channel to Tung Lung Island. Access via footpath beside the entrance gate of the Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club.

Tin Hau Temple (Tin Hau)

Tin Hau, the goddess and protector of fishermen, is Hong Kong's most worshipped deity. Temples devoted to her can be found in most coastal areas. This particular one is so popular that it is has given its name to the surrounding district. Built in the early 18th century, it's good example of traditional temple architecture. Open 07:00-17:00.

Tin Hau Temple (Yau Ma Tei)

When it was built seafaring worshippers, this temple was close to the shore. Many years of reclamation have pushed it far inland, and it is now the backdrop to nightly circus of humanity which is the Temple Street market. Beside Tin Hau, four other deities are worshipped at the temple. Its tree-shaded forecourt is full of people at all times.

Wong Tai Sin Temple

Wong Tai Sin, a shepherd boy of legend, is one of the most popular gods in Hong Kong, and this temple is the busiest. It has extensive grounds with gardens, pavilions and water features. A wall of nine dragons echoes a similar sculpture from Beijing's Imperial Palace. Soothsayers are on hand to tell fortunes and there is a Chinese medicine clinic for the poor. The temple combines the teachings of Taoism, Confucianism and Buddhism and, with an area of 18,000 square metres, it is large and varied enough to occupy visitors for a good few hours.

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